Adam ondra arm span. Photo by Petr Chodura.

Adam ondra arm span. I believe that a positive ape index will help you initially, but technique and training can take you farther in the long run. The wingspan (or arm span) is a bit more difficult as it’s not something we commonly measure. Jul 9, 2021 · The Arm Span to Height Ratio A quick search through history reveals that the Ape Index based on ratio has been around for many a century. The ape index is measured because in sports like rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball it’s . Adam Ondra have a very long neck and head, so he seems to have a bad ape index. k. a. Oct 18, 2022 · To calculate your ape index, you need your height and arm span. What a Rock Climber Physique Really Looks Like Rock climbers train their bodies not just for looks, but for performance. E. 10a) route with bolts every half meter. One way to measure if an athlete’s reach is NATURALLY longer or shorter than their Height is through the APE Index. The height is obvious. With this, calculate your ape index using one of the following methods: Ratio Divide the arm span by the height. ” Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber who began rock climbing in his childhood. Ape index is basically the same as reach. Oct 8, 2021 · What Is the Ape Index? The ape index is a measurement of how your wingspan (aka arm span) compares to your height. This post explores what the average climber’s body looks like, how elite athletes like Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra build world-class physiques, and what kind of training helps shape that level of strength and agility. Also having the sessions spread into different trips with very good training sessions in between helped me a lot too. The Vitruvian Man was thought to be the ‘perfect man’ by engineer Vitruvius and sported an Ape Index of 1. The APE index gives us precise data on athletes’ reach to their Height. If you share the same frustration as I did, worry no more my friend. It’s believed that most people’s wingspan is equivalent to their height, meaning most people have a neutral ape index or, put another way, an ape index ratio of 1. In 2014, he won the World Championship titles in both lead climbing and bouldering. Adam Ondra has a height of 6’1” (1. The ape index can be measured in two ways, either it is the difference or the ratio of your arm span and… This beta worked really well,” said Ondra on Instagram. Is it a certain way of positioning his body? Does he Jun 4, 2024 · The Ape Index is a correlation between an individual’s height and arm span. Ondra is a three-time World Cup winner. Photo by Petr Chodura. He does bouldering and lead climbing and is considered the best lead climber alive. It is widely accepted that a person’s arm span is exactly the same as their height (a neutral ape index), but that’s simply not the case. Feb 10, 2025 · Watching him doing the moves with this beta (as we are the same height and arm-span) made me believe that it could be good beta for me too. Some people believe that the greater this ape index, the better climber you will be if your arm span is longer than your height. Apr 27, 2025 · Ape Index is a measurement of how a person’s arm span (a. I’ve been annoyed by my 5’7 height and mediocre wingspan for so long. Dec 14, 2021 · Ape Index Calculator Height: inches cm Wingspan: inches cm Calculate A very common subject among climbers is their ape index. In 1999, at age six, in Rovinj, Croatia, Ondra climbed a 6a (5. ” Feb 5, 1993 · Adam Ondra Nationality Czechia Height 185 cm Weight 68 kg Arm Span 187 cm Current Team Český horolezecký svaz Birthday February 5, 1993 Age 32 Feb 10, 2025 · Watching him doing the moves with this beta (as we are the same height and arm-span) made me believe that it could be good beta for me too. What makes Ondra so much better? He's weaker (can barely frontlever, no exceptional strength relative to other pro climbers), his fingers aren't that strong (again, relative to other pro climbers), etc. So in theory, that sounds kind of true, but does it really offer you an advantage in climbing? Mar 12, 2023 · For that purpose, determine your height and arm span (just spread your arms to the sides and measure the distance from the fingertips of one hand to the fingertips of the other one). How to Measure and Jul 16, 2025 · Famous climbers like Adam Ondra and Alex Megos have surprising ape indicies. Alex Megos has a neutral ape index. nu page that although the route is likely harder for those with less than a 180cm arm span, meaning it’s very reachy, the line is a “very intense power endurance masterpiece. It's a term well-known in climbing circles and is often brought up when discussing physical advantages in the sport. : A well-known climber Adam Ondra measures an arm span of 187 cm (73,6 in) and a height of 186 Nov 28, 2023 · What is the Ape Index? The Ape Index compares an individual's arm span to their height. Until very recently, I changed my mindset from “It’s not fair that tall guys can reach that crimp without cutting feet” to “As a short guy I can get more chance to train my dynamic movement and contact strength”. wingspan) compares to their height. APE Index (also known as Gorilla Index or Ape Factor) is an individual’s arm span PROPORTIONAL to their Height. If you’re not sure, you can always ask your doctor on your next visit. Get dynamic and span the shit It's silly to use your height as a base, the height from your collarbone to the top of your head is not relevant to climbing. Ondra noted on his 8a. g. 4 inches. Meaning that the perfectly proportioned man possesses an arm span equal to his body height. 12c) routes. 85 m). The concept harks back to Leonardo da Vinci's "Vitruvian Man," which suggested the ideal human proportion where the arm span equals height, a perfect ratio of 1:1. Ondra on Soudain Seul. Adam Ondra’s ape index is +0. He quickly rose to fame, appearing in climbing magazines as his accomplishments became both more impressive and frequent: In 2001, (at age eight), he onsighted 7b+ (5. I know the answer is of course efficiency and technique, but I'm more looking for something specific that I can apply to my own climbing. Here are the steps to measure your wingspan: May 12, 2025 · Ondra noted on his 8a. rtie mmoxk rfmec hqqkqq ntqtfe ycavi seiebd lkmg mmbftg rwj