Best sling for quad anchor reddit. the ‘double-double’): The YouTuber suggested possibly using two For single pitch sport, I usually do a sliding x on a dyneema sling with 3 lockers. Get some pear shape That configuration of the cord is a new-ish rigging method, discussed in the new edition of John Long's climbing anchors book, and taught in many intro classes nowadays. Usually when I have seen the quad recommended as a single pitch top-rope anchor, it is because it is being used in a commercial, high-wear context. Where is the best location to mount your rifle sling? Near the front of hand guard, or closer to the receiver. Also, the locking Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. I don't recall the -two 240cm slings to tie into mini quad anchors or equaliser trad anchors (assuming you’ll be multi pitching, otherwise one is fine). The price on the MS4 sling is a little high, but I spent about as much on the Peak Design sling, and I didn't find that one nearly as comfortable, and I got tired of the anchor mounts banging against my camera and scratching it up. total cost for the locker and the sling was maybe $15? for building the anchor it depends on the route I am climbing but I have and use everything from two quick draws to a quad. a. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). Also personally I'd avoid TRex but that's for personal reasons, don't like their crazy cult, but I'm sure the slings work fine. i use this one as a “normal” 2 or 3 piece anchor An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. I normally don't comment on anchor threads because every every gym climber on Reddit who got a copy of Long's "Climbing Anchors" is an expert. Thanks for the info! Reply reply More repliesMore replies wildfyr • Most people I know use EDK for their cord anchor Reply reply [deleted] • Wrong sub but yeah I have a dedicated 7mm quad. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. (It won’t work nearly so well with a nylon runner because the knots are too big, plus finding a 180 cm nylon runner is difficult. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. I was taught how to do an anchor on a single sling with four carabiners. One deep rabbit-hole later I’m emerging with questions about two possible anchor designs which recognize knots in dyneema slings = 50% reduction in strength and thus seek to eliminate them: Anchor #1 (a. Edit: To add, for sport / top rope purposes, I would actually recommend a quad anchor tied from a cordalette over this anchor you've made. It seems like most people recommend using two slings and anchoring into both bolts. Mar 15, 2023 · However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. Reply reply TCclimbsOccasionally • Oct 13, 2021 · I do like the idea behind the quad for top roping because of the self equalizing characteristic of it, but then again I like the masterpoint because of the shelf space. Can't stress the quick adjust enough, it's the special sauce that makes the perfect sling. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. I would recommend building the quad, it’s my go to top rope anchor. With that said, both anchors are perfectly safe in most situations, especially if the two bolts are bomber. Given a standard 60cm sling for a two-piece Sliding X, or a 120cm sling for a three-piece, what kind of additional force is generated, if any, on the anchor due to the extension in the system when one piece fails? How far off-axis does loading need to be in order to weight a single leg of a cordelette, in both a two and three-piece anchor? Nov 2, 2017 · Uses of the Mini-Quad This is one versatile tool and I carry two on my harness. Thoughts or experiences with any of them would help. ) Jan 10, 2023 · My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I was out doing a private class with a guide and we were talking about something when I said, “Oh yeah, and maybe you could bring a quad for that. If I decided to get a back up, I'd have no issue getting the MS3. Learn how to choose the type you need. 5mm. Make sure you know what the triangle of death is before considering to use quick draws for anchors. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). The quad is really nice to use on a bolted multi with two bolt anchors. I just did the longest route (time wave zero) I have ever had to rappel and I had a few complaints about using a quad at hanging belays and difficultly with body sizes/reach issues between me and my partner. Anchors aren't failing due to the choice in materials in real world applications; they fail because the individual pieces or structure (rock/ice) is bad. They make things super easy. The plastic anchor might be the weak point but I don't know what type of thermoplastic is used. Choose a slightly wider 240cm sling, the very skinny dynema can weld the knots so tightly they are hard to untie. The quad can be prebuilt on the ground, and then easily connected, it extremely durable to wear, and is miles beyond bomber so it's considered essentially fail-proof. I've narrowed it down to these 3 QD sling mounts. Do any of you guys double up your anchors like that? I was also thinking of using one dyneema sling and one nylon. A couple of my thoughts. r/ClimbingAnchors: A collection and discussion plattform for all things concerning climbing anchors. The MS3 is very similar and almost half the price. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. I'm sure there are some crazy people who take some sick pride in cloving into single pitch sport anchors and doing something weird to set up to clean, but generally you'll want a PAS/Sling/Draws/something not rope for that. May 3, 2018 · From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. The climber uses a clove hitch on a single locker to anchor himself, and non locking biners for the anchors itself. I used to build anchors out of slings, now I almost always build anchors out of rope. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. I'm new to the AR scene. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. It looks good from a safety perspective. I even add a single wire gate onto the quad to clip into quickly when reaching the anchor in case someone wants to lead it and the TR gets pulled down. If you use a normal setup with an overhand or figure 8 knot on your sling, there will be a strength reduction on the sling as well. Repeat with second draw. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The two I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. If like bags of any kind this sub is for you! If you have lots of backpacks, purses, wallets, etc and are ashamed to admit it this sub is for you! If like you to constantly talk about bag designs then this sub is for you! Hey, I'm dabbling into the basics of climbing, and am wondering if it is (and why not) acceptable to establish a top rope anchor by attaching two quickdraws to the two top bolts? A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. I prefer something I always knew to be called the "electricians coil". I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. The quad can also be used to easily anchor into 3 or 4 pieces, or quickly taken apart to set up more complex anchors. Jul 10, 2023 · Keep reading to learn about personal anchor systems and how you can incorporate them into your climbing. Get helmets. Totally with you on everything except the overhand, which is a royal pain in the ass to untie once you're done why not use a figure eight? The problem with learning to tie a single type of anchor such as your pre-tied quad is that you lack the fundamentals to adapt to a different scenario (in this case, your need to extend the anchor) efficiently. I like it a lot, and it's more versatile than I think it often gets credit for. ) My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Right now im using the blue force vickers sling and i love it. What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. For sport climbing this speed and simplicity should encourage climbers to choose this method over the popular practice of just using two Here you go, an Amga video demonstrating a quad anchor. The only time it doesn’t work is if there isn’t enough space to feed a bight of rope through the hardware. For double length slings (4'), anchor webbing and cordelette, many folks use a twisted rack. If I intend on using a nylon sling as a PAS for simple anchor work at single pitch TR routes, do I girth hitch it to the belay loop or the tie in points? My gut says tie in points. May 31, 2021 · 2 x Locking Carabiners Tips: The quad anchor can be pre-tied before heading onto the wall, the range of self equalization in the quad allows it to clip onto a-lot of bolted situations without the need to re tie it. For group toproping with bolted anchors, I like to use a cordelette or quad length sling, 2 locking carabiners on the bolts, and an autolocking steel carabiner for the rope. And I don't want a bulky knot preventing the rope from equalizing. Learn what top rope climbing is and how to set up and clean a versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. If you really want to equalize two bolts try the Quad. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. jg I‘m going sport multipitching in a few weeks and was considering making a pair of quad anchors for me and my partner to just clip onto the anchor bolts so save building an anchor as we go. More often about once a week. Post pictures and get feedback about the quality of your anchor If you want to add the sling directly without worrying about a QD mount, look at the blue force gear picatinny sling mounts. I once knew a guy who refused to tie any knots or hitches in the slings in anchors because he didn't want them weakened below the 22 kN rating. Opinions? Quad axis loading on a D shaped locker is a 25% reduction in strength. Mess with your lowering or rap situation. I am wondering if I should get quick detach buckles or metal QD Mounts. 252 votes, 98 comments. a Redditor directed me to the HowNotToHighline YouTube channel. The ACMG standard in Canada for a two bolt anchor is to tie an equalized figure eight and top rope through a locker in the masterpoint. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. This is absolutely the better way! Basket hitch with one sling, one big overhand with both tails will connect the sling to your harness and give you two personal points of attachment. Oct 29, 2023 · Dyneema slings are sewn together, meaning it's just one less thing to think about. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A designgrapher • I've got an M lok rail, and looking at the Blue Force Vikkster Sling. Jun 7, 2024 · A skinny Dyneema sling is best for this. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. Overall, use your best judgement in creating an anchor and different scenarios will call for different anchors. it all depends on the route I am climbing and how the anchors are I love quad anchors. Post pictures and get feedback about the quality of your anchor What's the best sling length? For me, the 120 cm is a bit too short. Single point slings are for larpers, and three point slings are for boomers, ignore both of them. Basically saying that 1 in a million scenarios will cause a quad to fail, but fail to acknowledge that there are plenty of 1 in a million scenarios that cause any other anchor to fail as well. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. com Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Learning how to clean sport anchors is very important, since many avoidable accidents and deaths happen this way. Bobby shows his favorite ways to build a top rope anchor on 2 bolts. Clip the doubled ends into your protection carabiners. I will generally knot a power point in a double length sling or use two slings if the bolts are pretty symmetric. What’s a Personal Anchor System? A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a piece of climbing equipment that directly connects the climber to a climbing anchor system. He Also, carry a pre-made quad anchor if you know there are a lot of bolted anchors, as it makes building your anchor very quick. There are many important considerations when building an anchor, but the Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! I have 6mm-8mm nylon ropes. -a 180cm dyneema sling to make anchors works for the above if you’re always using two closely spaced bolts. Oct 22, 2017 · Any issues with using a (nylon or dyneema) double-length sling (sliding x with limiters) for a two-bolt anchor, either on TR (where there's no issue with rope or biners running over an edge, so no static line build needed)? I usually use a quad or a sliding x with limiters made from 7 mm cord, but the slings are more compact, and I'm curious. Okay. When making anchors my go to when possible is to girth hitch my anchor points and then build with a quad or equalette depending on how much extension I need. I think 180 cm is about the sweet spot. If you're using bolted anchors that aren't already connected by chain, I'd just throw a quickdraw between the bolts for redundancy and call it a day. The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. Multipitch = quad with a quad length dyneema sling and more biners. Jun 22, 2021 · Seems to me that there is lots of bias going on in that paper. I prefer keeping the double fisherman's outside of the middle. 319K subscribers in the ar15 community. Don't do that. I have pretty much all of the rest of the gear for sport climbing though. A collection and discussion plattform for all things concerning climbing anchors. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. With two bolts, equalization is a low priority and sliding-xes actually equalize pretty poorly. Whether you're top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying secure. I will have to try both! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. This article explains how it can be used to rig two and three-piece anchors. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. Called the "Quad" and is supposed to be best compromise between equalization and non-extension. The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the I use a double length sling and one locker for my PAS (it also incorporates my Belay device to extend the rappel and for redundancy at the anchor. Nov 24, 2020 · The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. Mar 13, 2016 · Just use standard cord and forget about it. Redundant, no extra slings or faff on your harness. How the strength of it is calculated and load on each bolt? Equalized webbing anchors is always best, however if you have an established anchor point, on pretty much a flat wall, I don't see too much of a problem with it my only concern is that the biners don't lock. I don't want a knot that reduces the strength of the rope catching a shock load if a bolt fails. Was wondering if using the girth hitch is fine or if looping the sling around the anchor and tieing each loop end together with a figure 8 is materially stronger? 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. Edit: Can the anonymous AMGA Safety Captains explain the votes? Edit 2: This is if there is no sharp rock in the vicinity, and I use newer gear. I told him that your pelvis would break in an 11 kN fall (that's what my instructor told me anyway), so if anything happened to us that would bring almost 15 kN of force on the anchor, you're basically talking about if our bodies are still attached to Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Read the wording on the sterling ropes website regarding 6mm cord (link below). Unclip your rope from one draw, clip it into your belay loop. People seem to be super into having their anchors self equalizing lately. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. 4 things to consider: Is your anchor - Strong, Solid, Secure and Redundant. Also, try to make your anchor efficient and This is the best way to clean sport anchors since you never come off belay. Figure eights a little easier to untie than two oberhands, too. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added security of all the other methods. It’s a good idea to get a mentor or guide to give you additional or specific training with anchors if you find you have a lot of questions. Gotcha, so really only approaching danger in a factor 2 scenario. Most of the anchors/belays were at hanging or Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. Is the I use the quad equalette everyday at work for top rope anchors. It’s more efficient to build a pre-equalized anchor (with the same sling pictured) using an overhand or figure eight instead of tying two overhands on each side of your master point. More of a pain than draws, but I like how it adjusts to loading direction, and the steelies are nice for keeping ropes (and hands) clean if you don't mind the extra weight Backing up a sliding x and other equalized anchors. Sep 1, 2023 · Our climbing testers have put these slings to the test on giant alpine routes in the Bugaboos, huge classic multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks, and on many fun days on the rocks in between, assessing and rating them along the way for optimal performance. e. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. . FWIW, I ordered some of these knock-off anchors from TEMU and although they appear to be identical in appearance, they don't appear to have the same coating in the nylon strap. I've noticed people mounting their sling closer to the tip of the gun by the end of the barrel, and others mounting it closer to the receiver. The rest of the cordelette I can build my anchor system and have 3 carabiners for it. Strength: in a quad, all these materials would probably be fine, but 7+ mm cord or dyneema is the way to go. The obvious use is in anchor construction. Generally for mutlipitch or just hanging out at an anchor. Which sling do you use the most? What do you like about it? Do you only carry the essentials or a little extra? Anything you'd want to talk about, really. For most applications, self equalizing anchors are over rated. I've been climbing for awhile now. It's the old adage about giving a man a fish, or teaching a man to fish. The quad is currently the best technique for building self-distributing anchors. Absolutely the best institutional anchor. I'd use 6mm or 7mm and call it good. Slinging rocks with slings or the rope itself is a great way to save on gear placement, as is building anchors with the rope. Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Ergonomics wise, it looks like it’s pretty low vs the ledge you are standing on. Post pictures and get feedback about the … How to build a trad anchor Not all belay stances are bolted. By tying load limiter knots into the quad, at least 2 parts of the sling would need to simultaneously fail for the anchor to fail. I like that it's dynamic, and (for what it's worth) I like that it's easier to equalize than with slings. I just pre-tie it so setup is a breeze, aside from that I'd usually just go with a knotted sling off 2 bolts. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. I'd get 3 locking carabiners (2 for top, one for bottom), and one non-locking (for bottom). Thanks in advance, everyone. what do you guys prefer? Preference between 1 point and 2 point slings? I'm extremely new to climbing outdoors so it's good to see different anchor types I'm curious what the grigri is for on each of these. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. ). The locking draw trueI have some 6mm cord leftover from my quad anchor, can I use it to make a PAS? Yeah I mean the only time I really use the quad is when I take some noobie friends out and I'm rope gunning a bunch of easy single pitches. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. In which case, you’d need to use the “old school” method of untying and retying. Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. The cool thing about this anchor is that I am able to build it on the ground and quickly set it up at the top. Better to put it up higher so that you can comfortably stand on the ledge while weighting the anchor. See full list on outdoorgearlab. I Should I get an actual dedicated anchor system or use alpine draws to reduce amount of gear? Some sort of top-rope anchor system Question: Do a quad or just a few slings? Carabiners for top-rope anchors. The best personal anchor will always be I'm curious to know what the people of this subreddit use every day. The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. May 31, 2021 · To make this anchor, fold a quad length (240cm) pre-sewn sling in half and tie both strands in an overhand knot about 6 inches from each doubled end. You're only clipped into one piece of the sling on the masterpoint on your example, whereas with the quad, you're clipped to 2 or 3. Jan 14, 2025 · When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look. For backing up with slings I'm basically following in the footsteps of the highlining community, sliding x with dyneema static sling backups are their go-to anchor. I want to build a safe quad anchor. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) Quads without knots violates the "redundancy" priciniple of SERENE anchors If you built a quad anchor without knots, and any part of the single was cut, the entire anchor would fail. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. Here are some of the things I'm looking for: Space to hold my biking essentials (water bottle, U lock w/ cable, phone, wallet) Easy access to all of my items while on the go Nice to have: Reflective materials for added Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Dec 1, 2023 · When I build a quad, I often use two bolts for anchor points, a quad length (240cm) sewn sling, two non-lockers for the legs, and lockers for the master point. " Dec 10, 2024 · The days of the 21’ cordellette quad anchor are over! The triple length, AKA 180cm, AKA 6’ sling makes a great length for quad anchors on bolts or screws. -1 quad length dyneema sling - pre-tied as a quad (adjust as needed for your anchor) -1 triple length dyneema sling. Unclip from chains and descend. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. TR Sling Anchors. You will need 20-30 feet of 6-7mm cordelette 2 locking carabiners for the rope, I use black diamonds RockLock 2 locking carabiners for the hangers, I use the black diamonds Positron This set up costs about $32 Here Hey everyone, I'm looking for some recommendations for a good sling bag to wear while biking. I wouldn't want to fall, slide 12" or more to the knot and slam into it. You shouldn't aim to use regular quickdraws for an anchor as they are too short. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. Yes, two seperate slings is a far stronger system, but requires both anchor bolts to be at the same height to properly distribute the load on two equal length slings, which is not always the case. Fold the sling in half so you have a total of four strands If it's a larger group, and/or the group is climbing above limit, a quad made from two double length slings is nice to have. In researching anchor designs, pros, cons, etc. I assume theres pros and cons to both setups, but what would they be? /r/ManyBaggers is for folks who like all things that are bags. For EVERY route you climb, consider the climbing/fall zone below the anchor, and adjust the limiting knots closer to the center point to cover only that much movement and reduce extension. The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why the quad or pre equalized is preferred. In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. A double length sling is often sufficient to construct a good anchor from a pair of bolts. As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single length = 60cm, double length = 120cm, etc. I use big bd lockers to grab the bolts and edelrid lockers with steel wear surface for the rope since it ends up getting tr'd on. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor is NG if you're leading in blocks, or worried about escaping the belay in a crisis. You should always have a sling just in case so you can manufacture something more appropriate if needed. Learn how to make a three-piece trad anchor using a quad or traditional overhand-knot technique. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. BD draws. It can work if the bolts are very close together and you use a small diameter sling, like 8 mm. 240 dynema slings are also fantastic for gear anchors too. Gear placement is mostly for worst case scenarios, if it requires you can do shorter quick pitches, slinging a rock, belay your parnter up the crux with a munter and keep moving. What are your go to methods/anchors for the way down on a route with two bolt rap anchors (rings or chains maybe that changes your answer). I keep a simple kit, so here’s what I’d carry to start: 60m rope with ground tarp, one set of draws, 5 locking carabiners (HMS build), a couple of non-locking carabiners, two nylon 120cm slings (usually my PAS), two dyneema 120cm slings (usually to build a quad anchor), two 60cm dyneema slings (other PAS or to extend draws), a prussik cord or hollowblock, 18 feet of 7mm cordalette Dec 16, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. edit: here is another discussion about it with a bunch of different opinions. I use slings for a lot of my anchors and will make sure to do that now in situations where a factor 2 fall could be possible. I've been searching for a while now, but I just can't seem to find the right one. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more If I am setting up a top rope anchor, in this case a quad, do I need locking biners or am I able to safely use non-locking biners? I usually use 2-3 alternating gates when setting up my quad and don't see a way that the rope could come out of any of the biners. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. k. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. I usually only use a single open-loop sling to anchor myself in, but I guess it's probably safer and doesn't really hurt anything to have more redundancy. So whatakes the lunar concepts contour slings your go to? Ive been on the hunt for my end game sling that i can wear all day with a 12-14 pound gun slung on my shoulder that can give all day worth of comfort. Seems that the equalization is far superior and with some practice it can be tied almost as quickly. Read on for the best recommendations. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. I think my best bet for multi-pitch is a masterpoint anchor and a quad for single pitch climbs to run laps on. It helps keep everything neat and you don’t kill your back bending down to top belay or pull up rope. Redundant or Complicated? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment cycling_sender • Additional comment actions I mostly use one of those skinny Mammut 240 slings pre-tied in a quad, with a pair of steel lockers for the rope. But 5mm in most cases is too thin, go for a double length dyneema sling or try to find some 6 or 7mm. Welcome to r/AR15! Share you builds, ask relevant questions, play nice etc. Realistically though, having it being non extending is much more important. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. If I comment, it's usually "Except for the Quad, self-equalizing is BS. When arriving at a belay station with two modern bolts it takes less than 10 seconds to construct an ERNEST anchor with the Mini-Quad. ” He immediately thought I was talking about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 strands). The cordelette I can chop it and make my own Personal Anchor System (purcell prusik)along with a carabiner. Not too short, not too long, works on horizontal bolts and with a little adjusting, vertically offset ice screws. If I'm setting up a top rope on top of a sport route, it's a pretty good solution. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. vak vldx awkgsq tlga fwyo wwixuf quiehn jfbxqkp vhejh dsyln