Finger training rock climbing reddit. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Stop your climbing sessions when your fingers get sore. But since every grip i trained normally doesn’t use a flexed pinky (half crimp, open, 3 finger drag) it seemed worthwhile to train it. 3 and 2 finger pockets are much better at training the finger strength On climbing days my fingers have started feel fantastic, if I didn't have time during the day I do it as my warm up paired with recruitment pulls. It'd be fine to do a pull up routine on the jugs of a basic hangboard, but sticking your fingers in pockets is not a good idea until you've built solid foundation for your fingers and forearms, which simply comes through climbing a lot. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I am planning to start finger training, and I'm wondering how I can supplement my climbing with finger training without it getting in the way of actual climbing. I agree that strength (especially finger strength) is very important in climbing, but I’d like to caution against the idea that technique is mostly intuitive, and that most people will be able to “figure it out” by just climbing. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD Mar 26, 2025 ยท Fingers of steel are the foundation of harder climbing. Do core or shouder mobility or cardio if you don't feel like you got any kind of workout in, but don't work yourself to exhaustion. A couple of months back I developed some right-hand ring finger pain, I’m pretty sure while climbing an overhang V4 (or maybe overdoing pull exercises). As people have said, the best way to get better at slopers IMO is: Train slopers. Max finger strength is your ability to grab a hold for five to 10 seconds. You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. As long as you have a solid base of climbing experience (climbers just starting out will find maximum benefit from just climbing), finger strength training is an excellent addition to a climber’s training regimen. On the day after climbing days , usually my fingers feel destroyed/sore, and I always feel a lot better doing the routine. Check it out! So the other posters have covered the obvious "these aren't super useful" so I'll directly answer the question of how best to use them. To me, it just doesn't make sense to forbid serious and controlled fingerboard training while recommending climbing more (usually in worse crimps, doing fairly dynamic moves and probably while tired). I also have short pinkies, but when watching back some of my climbing videos about 50% of my full crimps have flexed pinkies. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. There’s plenty of finger extensor trainers available for cheap. For me, training (off the ground lifts) full crimps with a flexed pinky has helped my performance immensely. You get used to body positions which reduces the amount of finger strength you need If you need more finger strength for slopers, training slopers on hangboard is not a productive use of time. Reddit's rock climbing training community. . uvjo jjgsj sepl jmwug dbhakl bad refempvj wkxv njsr xssysxf