Hardest big wall climbs reddit. Big wall is a spectrum from bolted 8 pitchers to trad ''trade routes'' with easily accessible clear beta and maybe even fixed anchors, aid climbs that 5. I have always leaned on one particular climb. 10- range. (in Himalayas). This means that climbs end up with hundreds of "votes" for whatever grade the climb current is from anyone who is just trying to log a tick, so it's really hard for a climb to have its consensus grade shift over time. Apr 4, 2023 · Deep in the Cascades, you can top out huge walls without placing gear or pulling 5. 9 and when I boulder I can barely send v3s. May 13, 2024 · The TNT wall features steep pocket climbing ranging in difficulty from 5. Dawn Wall in a Day? I think it's possible to climb the Dawn Wall in a single day. Reply reply Dec 6, 2022 · In 2013, I became the first woman to climb the hardest big-wall grade to date—Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites—a 5. As for indoor metrics, project V5ish in my gym and V4 on the tension board. The ceilings are low too. Climbs are HARD. On a spray wall, traverse around in a circuit on whatever holds you can tolerate; trying to work up for about 2 minutes on the wall. I know that the media has polluted people to think that you're just not cool unless you climb V15, but let's get something straight: climbing real V10 is fucking hard. Nov 15, 2023 · This is the exhilarating world of free solo climbing, where the stakes are as high as the peaks themselves. You need to climb really hard and have a ton of rope skill and gear knowledge to do a big wall climb like that safely. 1. In my experience, they cross at about 7a+ on routes and 7A+/7B on boulders. Looking at the climbs on Strava can be a bit misleading since they show averages that can get you in deeper than you want. g. Other than that, my hardest sends were 2 other alleged V6s that felt every bit of V8. Eventually you will feel more comfortable on them. 12a. Also you can’t really compare these big wall climbs (multi pitch) to what Adam Ondra is doing (single pitch). Repeat 4 times. What are some of the most technically challenging climbs in the lower 48? Mar 28, 2025 · The climbing legend says the 4-hour car-to-car solo was a "personal best" When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Later at a different place I could Wall Jump Climb up and now I feel pranked. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Unclimbed Southwest Face of Annapurna Fang, the largest on Earth at nearly 4. Climbing is hard. There’s no doubt this is the hardest big-wall rock climb in the world. Reply reply more 2. I've seen some tall, lanky, stick-people out there with super strength climbing really hard problems, and their height had less to do with that than their weight/strength ratio. And walljumping up a wall is so hard, I only manage it maybe one in every 50 tries. Would you follow in their footsteps in attempting these fearsome climbs? Aug 14, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I've been programming serratus wall slides and loop band external rotation raises, experimenting with scapular "rows" on the climbing wall, etc. Also, you said part of it is going to be finding someone to lead everything? That is not really climbing it if someone is doing it all for you and pulling you up, is it? Try climbing first and see if this is realistic for you. How to Big Wall Climb is the first step-by-step aid climbing guide that takes you from your first step in an aider to the summit of El Capitan. I currently climb 25 (about 5. Be mindful and try gripping them differently, try to find something that works for you. Climb up hardish boulder problem. 4K votes, 165 comments. Bonus: you'll sometimes see IFSC climbers there. ? Suggestions? Practice climbing lower grade climbs on holds that feel hard for you. "Natural talent" is < 1% of performance. Back in the day before sport climbing was a big thing the only way to make things harder was to increase the danger and commitment to a route. The preparation and planning took six years. Medium Rock Climbing Wall Location 1 Medium Rock Climbing Wall Location 2 Large/Hard Rock Wall - found once again in the Yukimatsu neighbourhood. I wasn't sure if there was a good rule of thumb about lead climbing adding a certain amount of grades of difficulty or not. I love climbs with weird body positions where I'd have to kneel on features sometimes and it helps to have a bit more protection. I started weight lifting, mostly deadlifts and pulls ups, and it has improved my climbing, but I still haven't climbed a 5. Barring altitude, is the technical climbing involved in climbing the 8000ers even super difficult? Is it mainly crossing crevasses and maneuvering through cerac and avalanche zones that makes them hard? Im asking cuz without altitude problems, it seems like a lot of the 8000ers would be much easier to climb than plenty 5,6, and 7,000ers I think of the relationship between indoor and outdoor grades as an X in both bouldering and sport climbing. Context for people who don't get it: this is the premiere alpine big wall of the Sierras. We have compiled a list of the most difficult multi-pitch routes in the world for you. But I just want to climb hard and not over do it on my elbows and shoulders. Climbs are graded for climbing them in the easiest known way. Been climbing for about 8 years now, primarily indoor bouldering with some occasional trad/sport and bouldering outdoors. Practice, practice, practice. Lots of ways to combine those. It's experience and understanding holds. 88m @ 98kg), and have climbed 5. Steep climbing is difficult but also, the Kilterboard method of grading climbs isn't too accurate in the sense that it automatically just downgrades or upgrades a climb based on how steep the wall is. Planning to buy my first Etrier. Logistics play a huge part! If you have experience with trad climbing, it will certainly be easier, but you really have to study the ideas and techniques behind how everything works. But if you want to push yourself on a training board, you're not going to work on any project problems that day. Look at Todd Skinner's Cowboy Direct (VII 5. If you have never heard of Peaks of Yore and are looking for a challenge, this is your game. We are thinking a route on Half Dome or El Cap. Edit Edit: Thanks for all the upvotes and awards! Never had so many upvotes before, it’s pretty cool. It's pretty big relatively and has a nice competition wall. My perspective is how to best use your training time and IMO that is on the climbing wall as opposed to isolation training like hangboarding, campussing etc. Hardest boulder sent outside was V3. The Dawn Wall, just like the rest of El Capitan, is a storied rock face that has tried and tested some of the biggest names in climbing. As for the ratings, the first climber (First Ascent) will propose a grade, and later climbers will confirm or adjust it as they perceive is appropriate. How many years of big wall training would it take to free climb? If someone strictly trained bouldering could they hypothetically complete the climb in a few weeks sleeping on the wall? What bouldering grade would be equivalent to the hardest pitch and the average pitch? I’m just trying to get a sense of how hard the climb was in terms I understand. What do I need to climb big walls in Yosemite? My regular climbing partner and I have been climbing together for 6 years (and separately for longer), and we have a fair amount of sport climbing experience. Also work on that flexibility. Once again, Honnold is about 4 grades below being world-class. Buhl on Nanga Parbat is undoubtably one of the most epic climbs but I'm going to mention two that haven't been yet. 9 free climbers spend 4 days slogging on (may have bolt ladders, may have run out aid on sketchy fifi hooks) and committed alpine faces with icy cracks, choss and glaciers to manage. In a sense, it is a paragon for the evolution of rock climbing as a sport; every stage, every era of climbing history gets some degree of representation on this, the most hallowed of Yosemite’s big walls. The home of Climbing on reddit. The climb would've been so difficult had it not been for the double rope length reward and unlimited chalk and coffee. Adam has the hardest sport climb (even before silence but now he's above sharma as well) and big wall climb under his belt. Honestly, Steck solo of Annapurna's south face is, if he did it, out of bounds in difficulty, risk and ability. It's a big investment sink for anyone, considering that climbing is a hobby and stress relief. With the boost badge, I had to take more time in the beginning, but later, I was able to just hard-sprint the entire level and spend as little time as possible wall-grabbing and turning. I love climbing, but if I were obese I absolutely wouldn't see the risk/reward being there. Urban Base Camp - this is Yuji's gym. 10 moves on routes like Flyboys, which climbs 1,800 fully bolted feet at an achievable 5. Generally I Not sure what you mean by climbing hard but my technique improved significantly by repeating climbs and trying to climb them with more efficiency each time. That said, it's not that difficult to get to the top of Yosemite's El Capitan, the top prize of the world's rock climbers. You have much higher injury risk. I just want to make sure everyone knows how amazing it is to climb this route ¨̮. I think steep board climbing feels super hard until you 'learn' that style of climbing and those holds. Despite success that seemingly came easy, conditions, skin, and the route’s pure technical difficulty posed challenges along the way. Strava lies in a bad way. Since the world’s best crushers, led by Chris Sharma, switched their focus to climbing in Spain, the result is a concentration of hard climbs that is unparalleled anywhere else in the world. 12b) if that's your sport grade i assure you that means nothing to yosemite grades Would it be reasonable to try and aim to climb half dome or no chance? you should look it up for yourself. Even to climb the easiest route on this thing, you'd have to be an experienced trad climber Incredible Hulk Apr 2, 2021 · "It’s all just a game people and I play the game," Daniel Woods wrote in announcing the new problem, one of just a handful of proposed V17s in the world. He's climbed Norway's hardest big wall route and does hard single-pitch trad as well, so I think he'd do okey. I dont have good upper body strength but you can overcome a lot with good technique Unless you're young and you've been climbing since you were really young, yes, V10 is elite. There are also numerous other rock-hard big wall climbs. Most of those people Dec 3, 2022 · They became the first people to climb V11’s 55-foot Ambrosia and V13 The Beautiful and Damned. May 9, 2024 · Known as one of the best female free solo climb ers and for her significant contributions to big wall climbing, Harrington has carved a niche for herself as one of the most daring and skilled climbers of her generation. It consists of 32 climbing pitches. Upon exiting the gondola, you should be able to see this rock wall. Training takes place in a relatively simple, temperature-controlled box, where effort in equals measurable gains out. When you try rock climbing in Spain, you can enjoy world-class rock climbing, amazing cuisine, vibrant culture, and epic outdoor adventures! Nov 22, 2016 · The first ascent of the Dawn Wall took seven years from inception. In 1995, Scott Stowe, Laurie Reddel, and “The Master” Steve Gerberding first cut straight up the Dawn Wall to establish what was then the hardest route on El Capitan. Climbing Big Wall in Yosemite Question for all who have been to Yosemite and have climbed before: My buddy and I are planning a trip in March over Spring Break to climb our first big wall climb. Feb 23, 2022 · A “big-wall climb” is just an overgrown rock route, but complicated by aid climbing and the need to haul a bag. Lots of other people live at the absolute opposite end of the spectrum. 619 votes, 549 comments. We're semi-seriously thinking about setting a goal of climbing Half Dome or another big wall in Yosemite in 2020. When I lead on the big wall I’m out of gas half way up on a 5. Like masturbation, “training” offers controlled results without the stress of real world The warm ups now feel easy and the moves are a lot more fun and tension based - there is most definitely no grade ceiling at this angle that I will hit for years! This is just my experience. The mental aspect in leading outside is really big, and it took me a couple years to understand that I could really push myself to get on harder routes. The energy is based purely on the trip duration and elevation gain on the most common route to the true summit from a land vehicle, but the experience required for this route is much more subjective. Climb back up another (or same) hardish boulder problem. I think I need more finger strength, but am afraid of injuring myself on the hang board. For me that says a route can potentially be more difficult but easier to navigate objective hazards. Nov 22, 2016 · Adam Ondra, a world champion Czech climber, just achieved the second free ascent of Yosemite’s hardest big-wall free climb, the Dawn Wall—in record time. Even in big wall climbing, where Alex specializes, he falls short of being the best in the world. The Dawn Wall may be the hardest big wall in the world but I think it's a bit of a stretch to say it's the hardest route in the world. Jun 7, 2017 · Alex Honnold has done the unthinkable; on June 3, he completed the first-ever free solo of El Capitan, climbing the wall via Freerider. . 14b, later downgraded to a 5. But the long game is worth it. Learn to multipitch climb, learn to build and evaluate gear anchors, learn rescue and self rescue techniques. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Whipping on steep sewn up routes with bomber gear? No big deal. 10s and . 9. "The game is how comfortable can you become with your own insanity. This time you will be travelling with your sim up the hill via the gondola. Learn big wall techniques like hauling and aiding. motivational speakers] all I can't think about is how much they are full of shit - the type of courage and determination needed in climbing has little to do with the work space. When you climb a boulder problem how hard it is depends on how you climb it, which holds you use, how you use them, in what order etc. Although he is a bouldering and sport climbing specialist, he also made the first ascent of the hardest big wall climb ever attempted, the Dawn Wall. Ondra is frequently regarded as the best climber ever by outdoor publications as well as by fellow professional climbers like Alex Honnold and Magnus Midtbø. Going arround a bunch of rooms that feel the same to solve a "puzzle" wan't that great. Dec 14, 2022 · The hardest climbs in the world have seen individuals test the absolute limits of what humans can do - both mentally and physically You can climb and train assistance on the same day effectively. On the other hand, short powerful sequences on a steep wall can suit someone bigger quite well as the holds are generally bigger. My main goals are sport climbing but my climbing partner isn’t always available and sometimes I only have about a 1 hour to climb due to work or life. May 20, 2023 · The Dawn Wall in Yosemite and Valhalla in Getu, China are currently the only multi-pitch routes in the ninth degree of French. At my local wall the average grade is probably around 6A. To me it was just way too steep and glassy. Climbs will settle into a grade as consensus builds. (Image by Derek B) Add in the fact that much fewer people are climbing on it at 50+ than at 40-45 and it’s easy for the difference to stand out. My thinner leggings and workout pants tear much easier on the wall than jeans. I feel as if I’m wasting a lot time on the auto belays. Like anything worthwhile, big wall climbing requires hard work. We have one here that shows a 6% average over about a mile, but reality is there is more 9% than anything and peaks at 13% . I think wall climbing is nice for exploration, but I don't like it as a "puzzle". If you're doing climbing for fitness, climbing is extremely taxing on small muscles that don't burn very many calories, and relatively easy on large muscle groups compared to other activities. Let's say a route is set at a certain difficulty for top rope. I consistently climb V10 outdoors in a session or 2, and plus 1 to that indoors, but at B-Pump I barely managed a single "Shodan" (allegedly V7/8) level bloc after trying it for 2 days. Sep 14, 2023 · The gold standard of big wall climbing, alpine style means leaving the ground and climbing to the summit without fixing ropes in advance. What's the trick to walljumping? It's so inconsistent, I usually can't get the same type of bounce two times in a row. It is by far the easiest location to find. Are aggressive downturned shoes mandatory for hard bouldering? In all the old master of stone videos, everyone is climbing hard in those purple mythos. 1 shot, one of the hardest faces in the world, solo, nuts. When I hear people making speeches about how climbing hold great many lessons for business [e. It's all about technique, with some strength. (Here is a sample of the route info / beta available in Yosemite Bigwalls: The Ultimate Guide!) Beginner Routes (easier to harder) Click the route name to read more about that route. Grade is based on the single hardest maneuver (the crux) of the particular climb. ” Reddit's rock climbing training community. 8 to 5. Oh, and feel free to share photos! In the end it was just as hard as I expected, but it took more time than I expected, because I was a total beginner to this style of climbing in Yosemite. Climb down easier problem. Meru looks both technically difficult and objectively hazardous. That got me thinking- how hard does slab actually get? At what point does it just become a really thin face climb with micro holds? Finally, anyone have any tips on how to continue to push their friction climbing skills into the . 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 9 km. I'm going to hazard a guess that you don't have any 9B+ boulders and I would be really amazed if you have genuine 9b+ sport routes as well. 12+? Trad climbing has lots of features, like cracks and chimneys, that you dont find in sport climbing and this will make you feel like a beginner again. Janja Garnbret is attempting to climb La Dura Dura (9b+). Also, the RNW route is completely different than most topos out there due to huge rock fall in 2015 if you mean Alright, r/climbing, who here has climbed El Capitan? What was your experience like? Preparation? Are there sport routes all the way up? How difficult was it, and what was the hardest part of the climb? I've never done any big wall multi-pitch stuff, but am interested as a long-term goal. From my own experience I found it hard to get out of the "I've done it" mindset and start to experiment with different beta for repeat climbs. At the top of the grade range indoor climbs are harder than outdoor climbs. I think mid 7s is where a lot of people plateau without some sort of focussed training unless they have access to amazing route setting and plenty of top class outdoor climbing. But the setting was fun and almost as hard as bump Fish and Bird - almost twice the size as urban Base Camp with 2 levels. Changes in the rock face (loss of holds to erosion, for example), will change the grade. I'm sure there are several other climbers currently capable of sending it as well. The Reticent ’s penultimate pitch, the Natural, is iconic for having no manufactured placements such as bolts, rivets, or bat I'm 6'2 @ 215lbs (1. Jun 5, 2025 · For aid climbers, the Reticent Wall (A4+; 2700 feet) on El Capitan holds a near-mythical status. Then rest 4 minutes. I climb hard-ish and fall frequently-ish and am not going to engage in stuff that's inherently high risk. Why do people like reading fiction but not research books? Same thing. I plan to start with aiding Trad routes (French Free) and also to practice a lot of aiding, ascending and hauling. How many people are there who can currently climb 9B+ or even 9B? Hello, I am a Trad climber for the last 1 year and would like to start doing big walls. 13a) on Nameless tower, that climb has like 30 odd pitches of insane free climbing above 18,000 feet, and the climbers spent more than 60 nights on the wall, but it tops out at "only" 20,000'. Big wall climbing is a science and an art. 12a (7a+) and V7 (f7A+). In this realm, a select few climbers have pushed the boundaries of what's possible, achieving ascents that leave us mere mortals in awe. Alex Honnold ticking off yet another big wall climb may not exactly be surprising anymore, but it's still newsworthy, and So a trad climb (hand-placed protection only) in the UK might be graded E1 4c, meaning that it's too serious for beginners (the E1 bit) but the hardest move isn't too hard (the 4c bit) - hence the seriousness comes from the lack of protection or exposure. The only logical step is going for a repeat of burden of dreams or developing his own v17 Hi All, I'm having a hard time moving up from v4 to v5. I've been climbing for over 3 years now. Does anyone have finger strength and shoulder strength recs that don't involve hang boarding ? I'm clumsy and smash my knees into the wall sometimes so jeans protect my skin from ripping. He sent one of the hardest trad routes in Norway recently, Flying Vikings (8b). The Woods board looks pretty dope actually — dual-tex + wood, symmetrical, finger-y, large, dense, benchmarks, and a leader board. Don’t forget that John Dunne was a big ‘ol’ boy, 6’2, and between 210 and 220, and he was crushing hard ass climbs in the 90’s! You won’t necessarily be yanking on micro crimps, but climbs that involve tricky body positions/tension, sloping holds, core strength and big hands are things bigger bodies can excel at. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Adam Ondra topped out the route after just a few weeks' work during his first trip to Yosemite. Likely the hardest line up to Annapurna imaginable. Finding your centre of gravity, body position, strengths and weaknesses. Getting your entire body closer and locked into the wall will always make small holds feel better and give you more options for body positions . What are some pointers on route selection, camping, gear, costs, etc. It's achievable through hard work. see what it's all about. 385 votes, 57 comments. Real climbing is messy: Partners, temperatures, technique, and a thousand other variables conspire to make the outcomes far less predictable. If I am a big proponent of training for climbing by climbing but my definition is very different from "just climb". And yes we are scared of falling. Every time I'm fighting to stay on the wall I ask myself how I can change my body positioning to feel balanced (unless it's a move that just simply demands strength). Sorting by most repeats helps, but probably the problem base is just going to take some time to mature. Pretty small with a nice spray wall. If she manages to climb it, she would be the first woman to ever climb 9b+. It may help outside though, I can't comment on that. For a gentler introduction to climbing on limestone, the Virgin Canyon is home to dozens of three- and four-star climbs in the 5. It's been up for two years and has already seen a repeat, done in excellent style in barely any time. Here’s how it works. 14a/b. The hardest climb that people are referring to was a 45m climb in Norway. He's doubled up on the world championship already. Really, being light is the big advantage. Can anyone help a brother out here? Is the nature of big wall climbing such that these routes are just always going to be 511d/5. I tried so hard to climb up to the berries but I just couldn't get up, even though it looks possible. Edit: also i want to clarify, climbing The Dawn Wall is THE HARDEST big wall in the world right now, so climbing it is a historic achievement. Over the course of nine days in October 1964, Royal Robbins, with Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, and Yvon Chouinard, climbed the North American Wall on the southeast face of El Capitan. While he’s renowned for his speed and fearlessness, he’s still eclipsed in pure climbing difficulty by others such as Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, and Beth Rodden. You’ll need some special gear, as well as new techniques. Been pushing back into the V8 range after taking a year off of climbing during covid, which generally seems to be my plateau. Exploring arround some of the big unique rooms was nice, specially the whale fountain room. Big motivation is I live in a country where there are almost unlimited un-climbed Big walls. I have designed a boardgame called Peaks, that is soon to be released, and in the process, needed to rank all of the mountains in the game by energy and experience required to climb. Climbing a 5. In January 2015, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed their first free ascent of Dawn Wall, and the route is now one of the hardest big wall routes in the world. 11s other than to just keep climbing that slab? Eventually hard slab requires weighting micro footholds and handholds, which is difficult when you have large feet and hands. Feb 14, 2025 · “That was, like, a skin-of-your-teeth, skin-of-your-fingers ascent,” Berthe tells me a week after his ascent of the Dawn Wall (Free) on El Capitan, the world’s hardest big-wall free climb. Spent one season climbing sport outside where my hardest onsight was 10a, redpoint 11b (in ten sleep, so maybe take that with a grain of salt lol). Dec 14, 2016 · Although Ondra has ticked some of the planet’s hardest sport climbs and boulder problems, critics assumed the experience-driven discipline of big wall free climbing would shut him down. Could lead climbing that same route increase its grade in theory? In my gym there are walls where you can climb top rope or lead with the permadraws along the same routes. If I'm honest, I think my weight is holding me back some, and losing weight would likely have me climbing above V8. Nov 14, 2022 · Training is easy. It also seems to have a vision behind it, namely "this is heinous, hard, and will get you strong as hell for rock climbing". I've been looking around for big wall free climbs that are easy/moderate grades - but I haven't seen any - at least at the really well known areas (that I know about) for big wall climbing. 8 slab with pro spaced out every 40 feet? No thanks. Nov 4, 2022 · Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson’s much-publicized ascent of this brutally hard Yosemite big wall became one of the biggest subjects in rock climbing back in 2015, inspiring an award-winning film, shaking hands with then-president Barack Obama, and so on. A large part of early progress is milage on the wall. At the bottom of the grade range, indoor climbs are easier than outdoor climbs. Aug 14, 2023 · The routes here are the ultimate ascents you can attempt on Earth, as chosen by the world's best climbers. buy C mac's yosemite big wall climbs. mpemi ociw mbsrr kenmv olu ubgrgq ryrdd jwz pbqyc eizoo