Moonboard too hard reddit. But there's a 6 move climb on the moonboard graded 6B+ that felt and looks (just rewatched the send video) equally hard if not harder than this 8 move climb on the Kilter (also at 40°) graded 7B+. And then use it! The board is a tool. V4s have the most repetition because they tend to use the same holds, but this still occurs throughout each grade to some I've struggled with many finger injuries so have a hard time with the tweaky-ness of the MB when trying to find a good project to actually work on (v8ish) or even just running through benchmarks well below my limit. Also I would pretty much exclusively work benchmarks and start by ordering by most repeats. So I’ve been training for about a year and bouldering for just under 2 years, pushing into v6’s on the moonboard. When I’m at the top of the moonboard absolutely worked, I feel great about my performance But some people might be like “shit that was a struggle, not fun climbing” which is understandable. And just to clarify: I am not talking about morpho differences, some climbs just are too hard/easy for the grade. 2016! To be totally fair, I’ve only had 2 sessions on the 2019, and haven’t touched the brand new one, but I’m still a die hard fan of the OG Moonboard. I think it’s got a stellar set of benchmarks, I love most of the holds (and honestly love complaining about the ones I don’t like anyway 😅), and it’ll always be the most special of the boards. MoonBoard_hold_template_A3 Moonboard is hard and it is not uncommon for gym grades to be soft. So in a way, maybe the grades on the kilter are closer to reality than moonboard grades and they feel even softer due to the mental safety you feel when climbing indoors as It sound to me from reading the thread & comments that you're trying to do too many hard exercises from the get go and introducing new stimulous in an intense fashion immidiately. Moonboard was a way forward that made it easier for OP to dial up intensity reliably without too much cognitive/discipline cost (it requires work to try hard; it requires work to skip easy/fun sets, etc). ” It uses some of the best holds and none of the moves are crazy big. I would not worry too much about the grades, since there are far too many factors influencing how you perceive them. The classic climbs are on 2016 if that’s your sort of thing. 6-12 sessions later I could complete only like two or three of the easiest moon board problems (6A+). Pinching on the board is hard but it really shouldn't be "all the holds" that give you this feeling, unless you only tried a couple of problems. Honestly, especially on a budget, the moonboard is not the best option for a homewall. Do the joists up there run parallel to the moonboard so you’re in between them? I fully agree that this is a very hard question to answer and I think it comes down a lot to personal preference. I never had a problem with finger injuries until I started training on the Moonboard. Reply reply More repliesMore replies sgbdoe • If you can do a moonboard V8 you can definitely climb harder than V1 lol Reply reply More replies PoopNoodlez • Reply reply FuRyasJoe • Reply reply Zestyclose_Bullfrog7 • Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore replies Kingcolliwog The 2019 set looks very cool too, but I haven't tried it, so can't tell how hard it is compared to the other. For reference, I did my first V10 benchmark on the ‘16 set this year. Kilter board imo is a good board for training at 45° and past, not enough load on your fingers at lower angles for folks who climb 7c-8b to be relevant towards outdoor climbing. The biggest mistake I’ve made moonboarding is by throwing myself too frequently at hard projects. my ape index is 178cm (~5’10) and alot of the benchmarks above 7A feel very max span for me. It has more dynamic movements. People who consistently climb 4+ days/week: how long did it take for you to reach that level, and what are your tips for sustainably recovering? Hope this isn't controversial, haha. I was boarding up to 6 days a week and at a certain point it just became too much volume. For me it would be a system board. I'm primarily a sport climber, so 15º seems like a nice angle to complement the hard bouldering of the moonboard in terms of warming up, doing circuits, and working on more techy footwork-intensive climbing Mar 3, 2024 · I like how terrible, in a sense, moonboard feels compared to normal climbing - almost all the holds are pretty bad for a given grade and most moves are hard. Your body doesn't care if that stimulus comes from plastic, wood, campusing, feet on/off, a hangboard. Use your brain to use it best for your training-- or fun. I know it is not very pretty, but if there is interest in it I can make it prettier, do it for all the Moonboard Setups and do some further analysing or better visualisation in general. Given space limitations, I think the other side will be 15º 12'x10' or so. Are there people that like this setup? If yes, why do you like this setup? I can only rhink of a million reasons to dislike it amd I would like to know why gyms still put this setup up instead of the 2016, where you will also have all the holds needed. I mainly board climb, mostly tension and moonboard as well as a spray wall. That said, I knew within the first 10 minutes of climbing a Tension board that I preferred it immensely. I would start out with once a week as a limit boulder session of 60-90 minutes after a thorough warmup. I've tried lots of system board climbs that on the first attempt I love the moonboard for many things, I like that it’s plastic holds (sorry tension), it’s hard but I feels accomplished and I feel like I’m progressing. The hardest moonboard 6B+ are harder than any outdoor 6Cs I have done. Users can instantly browse, filter, select and illuminate problems on the MoonBoard through just the swipe of a finger. The 2024 MB set look sick too. Even though it's more fun in a sense, moonboard feel more like training :) What exactly will it take to go from 2019 Moonboard V5 to V8 (based on my strength metrics)? I also love the moonboard as a training tool. Otherwise the moonboard is still kind of the standard for translating to outside. MoonBoard_hold_template_A3. I think the easiest 6Cs on the 2016 moonboard are easier than many of the outdoor 6Bs I have done. Figure out how to fit it into your overall plan for attaining goals and/or having fun. My favorite type of rock is polyurethane. I think it's very doable to train on the moonboard 3 times a week if you keep your sessions short but intense. There's problems on the Kilter HW where the crux is the start. Definitely harder. ) A pretty good problem to start with the called “An Easy Problem. Are there too many similar benchmarks? Or just too many in general? I want to preface this by saying I love climbing on the moonboard, and I don’t mind the large amount of benchmarks on the 2016 set (and other sets too). I did hear that with the 2017 set, it actually becomes harder than the 2016 set after you get past the strength levels where the red holds are your best friend - but I can't really do anything but pass on the info I hear there. Climbed on the Moonboard for about two years and fell in love. Im guessing $$$ To answer your question, things I like about the moonboard are the community (actually I feel like its grown too much lately. My gym just installed a moonboard, gave it a try and it's hard as fuck. In my opinion the 2017 setup is by far the worst setup of any board that I have ever climbed on. It solved many of the issues that gym sets can fall victim too and really provides a great training stimulus. Is the MoonBoard for you? Is it going to help you surpass your current plateau? In this article we’ll take a deep dive into when to start While working on this, it also occurred to me to try this direct move to 14G but after a few tries I came to conclusion that the direct move is too hard for me. As I'm on the lower end of the size spectrum too, I'm interested in this list, but so far I just gave up with the grades on the moonboard and cycle through benchmark problems in a 2-3 grade range until something looks nice to me. So far I have completed all the benchmarks from V4-6, and have 20 V7 benchmarks remaining, however I have found to be at a loss for how to complete some of these if you're a shorty climber. I would argue that using a board is probably the one climbing related "exercise" that will help you become stronger climber. For reference, I've gone through a lot of benchmarks on the 2016/17 sets up to 7B Hello r/Moonboard! I've been tackling all the benchmarks on the 2016 Moonboard for the past year. Without the lights, using the app is a big pain in the ass, the wall isn't really conducive to warming up on its own, and it trains very specific stuff, not really general things like endurance. but the yellow mini moonboard setup feels really hard compared to other setups I’ve tried. Formerly sorta okay boulderer (V10 max; solid V8) getting back at it after a very, very long period away (about a decade) Current limit about V6 or maybe V7 or V8 outside if I go into siege mode I live in Vancouver so lots of time on very crystally granite (lots of smearing, heel hooks, micro-crystal footwork etc) Lots of gym climbing with one day a week on the crusty old Moonboard Always going hard is harder to recover from than going 80% consistently. Problem is that often the problems feel too easy or too hard. purely based on style i would agree 2017 is the toughest. My wall has t-nuts/LED holes on a 100mm grid, so I can add random holds around the Moonboard grid without impacting the Moonboard climbing too much (and you can always temporarily remove a hold if it is in the way since it's your wall). There are also more routesetting possibilities on the 2016. Yes the old anacdote of "if you board climb then you get better at board climbing" is true, it kind of misses out a lot of nuance. MoonBoards have made their way into many commercial climbing gyms so more and more climbers of all levels are becoming familiar with these magnificient training tools. MoonBoard_hold_template_A3 Welcome to training on the MoonBoard, climb on the same problems as other climbers from around the world. im good on crimps and bad at pinches so naturally the 2019 is harder for me than the Welcome to training on the MoonBoard, climb on the same problems as other climbers from around the world. When I first started the Moonboard it took me 3 sessions to stick single moves on it. My gym doesn't even have the actual moon holds but it's still a blast. Reply reply dubdubby • yes our parents may have had a hard time in the military but the difference is, they chose to serve. I’ve looked at a lot of strength metrics, and I’m pretty sure finger strength is my limiting factor at the moment. I think my sessions were too long (~2h) and rest time between sessions too short. The Moonboard is pretty hard on your fingers. But really, do what you're psyched on and try hard. So I'm currently building a Moonboard set up in my backyard while I wait for the 2016 holds to arrive. The It's hard to tell the difference between grades when you're adjusting the steepness by 5-10 degrees. (Rest between attempts, stop if you feel any pain in fingers, wrist. Once you feel powered down, climbing for longer just to "feel like you worked your body" can be detrimental to your subsequent sessions. I built one for Covid, and am very happy with it so far. Moonboard and tension have shit holds and are much better at training finger contact strength. i also think its the most morpho moonboard setup. Not sure if I should be trying to choose problems that I know I can 100% send 3x in a row, or limit-ish problems that take 4-6+ attempts to send 3x. Board climbing can teach you some core fundamentals such as body Moonboard Strength Intervals: choose 6 problems, do them each 3x, 3 minute rest between attempts. My moonboard is closer to 45 than 40 and it does feel harder compared to my friends which is right on spec. just overwhelmed by how many problems there are now) and the moon OG "street cred" (for lack of a better term. I made a moonboard in my garage too except I had to exclude the bottom row of feet due to the height. Not sure about the other holds, and my board is a bit steeper. It's a ton of fun to make a problem that's just a bit too hard for you and then feverishly work at it until you can get it. A warning for OP: Moonboard climbing of set climbs generally encourages or requires dynamic moves between biggish but hard to latch and pull holds. But instead of doing the full setup (the holds are insanely expensive) I have the yellow set and the rest are non-moon holds so I can mix it up and have some easier stuff. Just so you know V4's on 2016 moonboard are likely harder than any gym V4's and wayyyy too hard for a V2 boulderer With all that being said however, I'd do it all again and want to push that cutting edge of weird contrived technique I've developed to get up hard moonboard problems just as much as I want to improve my weaknesses outdoors. Don't be too caught up in the Kilter grades and how it compares to other climbs in the gym. You'll get more value out of something you're more excited about and are having fun on in my humble opinion. Right now, my strength is probably just a V2/V3 level (more or less a beginner) and Moonboard isn't exactly the most beginner-strength friendly. Kilterboard grades are unserious, probably like whatever the true grade is +4 most of the time. climbing a normal gym route (from training pov that is). If you do this for a few weeks and don't feel tweaky, upping to twice a week is fine. I made sure to have a few days between the Moonboard sessions but sometimes I would climb some crimpy routes the day after or day before. I tried kilterboard once and holds just seem too big and problems are longer. Moonboard is all about committing. So much of all this requires matching disposition and desires and context to Some people want to climb, some want to climb hard, and some want to climb hard without trying super hard. Spray walls, I typically set moves that I'm good at, and even if I try to set moves that I'm bad at, it's hard for me to tell if a move is way too hard for me, or if I'm just not trying hard enough. I was originally a little worried that 12 rows would be too limiting--but after putting the holds up and having climbed a slew of problems, I find that I'm having just as good of a workout and as much fun as on the standard wall. I'm personally more psyched to climb on things I know have a standard reference of difficulty. OP's intensity likely wasn't dialed in right with the old way. Take at LEAST 2 minutes between burns, up to 5 or so. I normally climb v6 and v7s in the gym and I was struggling on v4s on the moonboard. Also if you want a fun project try Bleak House 6A+ or Alpine Trash 6A+. . You can build a home wall that is better for training overall for way cheaper than you can build a moonboard, and 12 votes, 30 comments. I think it was a mistake to put the red holds on the MB master set. The moonboard can be really hard on your tendons so make sure you stay very in tune with your body while climbing it. FWIW, I am also a v7/8 gym climber and it took me a fair few sessions on the moonboard to really get used to the style. Love that you just cut into the ceiling lol. Some random thoughts below. It also has the best lighting. The Moonboard is also great and cheaper. The easiest climbs on the app are V4's (6B's). But it trains the style it does offer very, very, very directly: Large/slopey crimps, high feet, big dynamic moves, pretty square-on climbing, and in my view perhaps best of all, toeing in on big but very slippery feet on a steepish angle. we are merely byproducts of that decision in a life we didn’t choose. Jan 30, 2023 · The MoonBoard is a phenomenal training tool used by some of the worlds best climbers. What I don’t like about it is it’s has a high low grade (OG is v4) so it’s harder to warm up on compared those that start lower. That is based on experience from a pretty crowded gym with lots of different climbers training on the moonboard. I'm building a 15' long x 12' wide climbing shed, and one side of it is definitely going to be a moonboard. Weren’t there beams up there? Or how did you manage that haha. Moonboard holds are too big, too similar, and the angle (one surface) too regular. trueMaybe they feel soft because unlike outdoor climbing, you can try hard and not having to fear whether you‘ll land on the crash pads or not and so keep trying harder both physically and mentaly. I've never been on a Kilter board, but on a Tension and Moonboard and I somehow clicked most with the Moonboard. Here are my current metrics: Max hang on 20mm edge for 10 seconds: +42% BW 3 rep pull up max: +42% BW I’m only training max hangs once a week, whereas I’m Watch video Train Hard Climb Harder Browse thousands of problems The MoonBoard’s powerful smartphone app and LED integration provides an intuitive and interactive climbing experience. Welcome to training on the MoonBoard, climb on the same problems as other climbers from around the world. its pretty rad climbing problems set by your hero). I just feel like granite and sandstone don't really count. Moonboard is definitely the most sandbagged for sure, then tension and then kilter. I think the open kick panel favors taller climbers, and the first move is generally not super hard. My question is from a training perspective, it is better to climb on the moonboard and tick off problems? I'm not sure what's the difference between climbing on a moonboard vs. If there are crimps at the gym you can't pull/move on-- crimpy boulders you can't do, or require hard-hard effort-- the physics and physiology is clear: You can get enough of the right stimulus to get stronger. It may not sound like much, especially since this sub likes to push the moonboard as just a ‘training tool’, but a big part of the Moonboard is the community/ cult, and I think it’s a shame if you dont get to try (or downgrade) Hard Times or Captain Fitzroy. all the moves feel very punchy as in you really have to go for the moves and throw yourself at the board. On the flip side, after moonboarding 6 days a week you go to climb on regular gym sets and you feel like you could go forever. Don't give up on the Moonboard, just jump on it for like 15-20 minutes per session. In terms of sending harder grades on the moonboard I think it just comes down to trying hard moonboard boulders consistently and actually projecting them as opposed to just giving one a few goes every session. auxy mvmmdj wxao bdhnhal nlg tylhf ivekcd fqgscg tifj cgqmd