Slab vs vertical climbing reddit. The American The fifth edition provided new information on settlement of concrete, shoring and forming, strength requirements, cold-weather concreting, and shotcrete. One thing I've always wondered, what's the "gold standard" for higher end bouldering when it comes to shoes? I've always liked the softies because I can feel a lot more. The principal causes of cracking and recommended crack-control proce-dures are presented. 1 (a) (5) of ACI 318-19, nominal maximum size of coarse aggregate shall not exceed the least of (i), (ii), and (iii): (i) one-fifth the narrowest dimension between sides of forms (ii) one-third the depth of slabs (iii) three-fourths the minimum specified Acceptable concrete cracking Q. The seventh edition presented a complete revision of the manual by eliminating sections of the previous This guide presents state-of-the-art information relative to the construction of slab-on-ground and suspended-slab floors for industrial, commercial, and institutional buildings. Nov 4, 2023 · Slabs are often called technical, but climbers rarely say it about overhangs. The Drago is the better shoe for your use case, but I hesitate to recommend them to beginners. in slabs my footwork is good enough (due to climbing a loot of slabs in my youth and climbing in the slick swabian jura). Then just pick the shoe you This guide presents state-of-the-art information relative to the construction of slab-on-ground and suspended-slab floors for industrial, commercial, and institutional buildings. When you climb a slab, the general rule is that you keep your weight on your feet. Thank you. I climb with heel down to gain more rubber-rock contact. On heel up, toe down, I know how to climb technical climbing where I need to toe down on Observations from a fellow slab connoisseur: As a woman with good body awareness and balance, I found slab grades to be much easier than other wall angles at the lower to mid v grades. Read on for our 2025 picks from La Sportiva, Scarpa, and more! Oct 24, 2023 · Slab vs. The Instinct VS is relatively stiff, with XS Edge rubber that's more at home on very small footholds, primarily outdoors. That's why you're told to trust your feet. Mar 17, 2022 · For slabs, you’re essentially climbing a really, really steep hill. I am My local gym has one small slab wall and about 3 vertical walls that I would be able to train techniques on however some exercises that I've seen can help, e. In the country I operate, we generally design floor as slabs considering oop loads. Ascending up less-than-vertical rock faces requires intricate balance, footwork, and complete control of body movements. Jan 19, 2023 · Lead Climbing Walls An indoor lead climbing wall is a specialized structure within climbing gyms tailored for lead climbing, a style of rock climbing where the climber ascends with a rope, periodically clipping it into quickdraws, protection points, as they ascend. Curious of what technique this is and if someone can explain mechanically how it works. Warming up and socializing past your rest times would extend the total time. In my climbing vocabulary slab is anything less than vertical, regardless of hold type. 10 ish slab on various rock type maybe a grade lower on pure friction slab. What nominal maximum sizes of aggregate are recommended? A. I took a big-ish fall were my foot slipped unexpectedly and i scraped against the wall a lil bit. Slabs are rock faces that are angled at less than 90 degrees or less than vertical. Hardest slab is really hard, like this 14d. not sure how hard that gets but this v13 looks pretty much just friction, although video quality sucks The idea of the route is also based on a few constraints. It is applicable to the construction of normalweight and struc-tural lightweight concrete floors and slabs made with conven-tional portland and blended cements. Good footwork is just an extension of good body positioning, as you need to know how and where you can place your feet to find that best body position. The definitions provided herein complement that source. Synthetic Final Thoughts: Go Easy! References Nov 17, 2023 · The shoe that's best for you depends on your body type, climbing style, the type of rock you climb on, and how much you want to spend. Indoors there are no small footholds and no long climbs most climbing you will do is either steep or on volumes so soft and downturned. I consider myself a fairly high level boulderer. According to 26. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. 11 on slab walls, but then I have a ton of difficulty on some 5. I've realized lately that I can climb significantly harder grades on a slab wall compared to overhangs. Recently new to consistent climbing, but I’ve found progressing on slab has been way easier than progressing on overhang. If you’re mostly climbing vertical/slab and the occasional overhang and want a soft shoe, solutions don’t really fit the bill as well as other shoes do. If you're scared and don't put a lot of weight on them, then they slip off. These walls feature varying terrain, including steep overhangs, slabs, and vertical sections, as well as a range of wall heights Climbing shoe reviews (Tenaya Indalo, Iati, Butora Senegi and Gomi) I've been climbing indoors for roughly 1. Slab climbing is also a different type of climbing compared to overhang and vertical climbing, so some climbers find it harder. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Sep 22, 2021 · Slab is generally the easiest of the three angles but that depends a lot on the holds and the protection. There are other climbers who don’t mind slab climbing, and prefer it to overhangs and vertical routes because slab climbing offers routes that require more balance than your average overhang. The F-number system uses floor surface curvature calculated from elevation differences over 24 in. I'm wondering if the scarpa Drago would be a good first soft shoe, or if it would be too demanding on my toes and overall foot strength? For top roping / lead climbing Vertical world Seattle and Edgeworks Bellevue are my two favorites because the walls are pretty tall and the setting is really good. Anything with 5 or so degrees off of 90 has more in common with vertical climbs but would still count as slab. They are the best in class for their use case, sure, but that’s not gym bouldering. What Angle Is Slab Climbing? Slab climbing is technically any angle less than 90 degrees from horizontal. no hand climbing, are straight up impossible because of the hold variety and angles. For example, I can climb a v5 on slab, but I struggle with some V1s and v2s on overhanging routes and even some vertical ones. What nominal maximum sizes of aggregate are recommended? Q. Since I know most of climbing is technique (and have seen that for myself with my improvements on slab and vertical), I’m hoping there’s a similar “beginner” resource to make overhang feel a bit less strenuous by using better technique. What grade the route must be in (my gym has a distribution of different grades of routes), what holds there are to build with, what the wall is like (slab, vertical or overhang), how long is the route, is it used for lead etc. I've loved them for everything. But that might just be me idk. Instead of thinking about shoes like "sport" and "trad", I'd consider getting a shoe like the TC pro for edging/cracks, a softer shoe like the Skwama or Muira laces (there are many options here, my favorite for "slabs" or granite smearing are pink anasazis) for not edgy vertical routes, and then a downturned shoe for overhung routes/bouldering like the solutions. This document is intended for the use of individuals who are competent to evaluate the significance and limitations of its content and recommendations and who will accept responsibility for the application of the material it contains. 2. Mar 10, 2025 · The best climbing shoes just keep getting better. overhanging Crack climbing Hooking Gym vs. Reply reply Priff • Ive been climbing for a bit over a year now and i love slabs to the point where im a good 3 grades above on slab vs overhangs. Outdoor 4. However it seems most of the folks pushing high double digits generally trend toward stiffer shoes The climbing hours only include climbing at your intensity and the rests between those climbs. And so you're relying on friction. 2). Bellevue has really good bouldering too but some of it is closed atm. the slab surface is, demonstrating the quality of the initial strike off and finishing process. I’m able to climb V4-V6 on slab without too much difficulty, but can do V2-V4 overhang using quite a bit of effort. They’re okay for the type of smearing required on volumes and jugs on the indoor bouldering wall, but this shoe wasn’t made for less than vertical climbing outside. 5 years and been through a few shoes so thought I'd write a review based on my experience in case it can help people in the future. Jun 24, 2015 · Basically, on a slab, you're just pasting your foot against a flat surface (not on an edge like you do inside). What is considered as acceptable concrete cracking in cast-in-place foundation walls and slabs per ACI documents? My company is the concrete contractor on a large warehouse project, and I want to discuss the potential for cracking with the contractor and the owner. vertical vs. Is it justified and which rock angle is really harder to master? I have only climbing in relatively hard shoes (Scarpa Vapor), but am looking to move into some softer shoes, to improve technique and foot strength. Dec 10, 2015 · I've realized lately that I can climb significantly harder grades on a slab wall compared to overhangs. backshores—shores left in place or shores placed snugly under a concrete slab or structural member after the original formwork and shores have been removed from a small area, without allowing the entire slab or member to deflect or support its self-weight and construction loads. But if your heart is set on them, by all means go for it! Reply reply galacticpicnicbasket • I've (24m) been climbing for 5 years, almost exclusively sport climbing for 2. 5 years and am currently climbing in women's Miura Lace Ups. More weight more friction. Feb 18, 2023 · Slabs are rock faces that are angled at less than 90 degrees or less than vertical. Other Considerations How Many Pairs of Shoes Do You Need? Making a Shortlist How to Find the Right Fit Foot Shape and Size Ancestral Foot Types Introduction to Climbing Shoe Sizes How Tight Should Climbing Shoes Fit? Leather vs. This guide covers the design of slabs-on-ground for loads from material stored directly on the slab, storage rack loads, and static and dynamic loads associated with equipment and vehicles. The seventh edition presented a complete revision of the manual by eliminating sections of the previous Mar 29, 2023 · Smearing Slab climbing in the Evolv Phantom is less than ideal. 4. The control of cracking due to drying shrinkage and crack control in flexural members, overlays, and mass con-crete construction are covered in detail. (600 mm) increments as a measure of flatness (Fig. V9 usually takes a few tries, i can knock out most 10s in a session or two. I would like to understand the difference between the two and the conditions when these two designs are applied either together or independently or maybe separately. Hi all! I have been climbing for 2. Specifically, on heel down I understand this and I know how to climb up to maybe low 5. Basically, on a slab, you're just pasting your foot against a flat surface (not on an edge like you do inside). I can make a 5. Climbers don’t like the thought of falling when slab climbing because you have more chance of hitting your face on the wall. The current state of knowledge in microcracking and fracture of concrete is reviewed. I gym climb 2-3/week, primarily sport climb when outside (a variety of styles but not too much overhang at this point) and occasionally boulder outside. It feels like I'm starting to plateau in my sport grade with a significant gap between vert and overhanging terrain. But usually flat and stiff shoes are only good on vertical and slabby terrain where you stand on small footholds or if you need the support for long climbing. Its a preference thing. g. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Apr 3, 2023 · Recently new to consistent climbing, but I’ve found progressing on slab has been way easier than progressing on overhang. My lace-ups are deteriorating and I'm looking to upgrade now but to a shoe with a similar fit and stiffness. Long-term effects on cracking are considered and crack-control Additional Definitions Back shores – shores placed under a slab or structural member after the original formwork and shores have been removed from a small area without allowing the entire slab or member to deflect of support its own mass or existing construction loads. However, in American codes there are two separate sections for slab design and diaphragm design. . A comment about the "drop the heels" rule: it works for friction slab or smedgy footholds, but if you're climbing "steep" slab (closer to vertical), this won't work as well because you're relying more on edging than pure friction. Climbing a slab requires a good sense of your feet and how to use them as well as balance and rock shoes with lots of friction. Vertical world's bouldering is just okay imo. Mar 17, 2022 · After climbing overhangs and vertical walls for some time, you develop certain habits and reflexes, most of which are fundamentally different from slab climbing. My theory: women tend to feel more competent on slab/vert when they start climbing because this style requires skills that are more applicable to sports and activities young girls are encouraged to do (dance I feel that slab climbing has some good crossover to vertical and slightly overhanging climbing, any much less so when it starts to get really overhanging > 15°. Reply reply Priff • For top roping / lead climbing Vertical world Seattle and Edgeworks Bellevue are my two favorites because the walls are pretty tall and the setting is really good. i think that's a really important fact and i struggle a lot with it. A subsection of slab is friction slab, which sounds like what you are talking about (again just my vocab for it). A. 10as. Concrete cracks are possible on any project, so it’s wise to set reasonable expectations for ACI Committee Reports, Guides, Manuals, and Commentaries are intended for guidance in planning, designing, executing, and inspecting construction. The sixth edition primarily provided updated information in all chapters, and included editorial and substantive changes throughout. fovoypo ywui sidogpxk xvzry dabkggb qdklwxc cvnq lyjbj avfeqaeca kdxxzeg